A variety of chalcedony found in all colors; used extensively in Scottish jewelry.

Jeweled ornament in the shape of a feather or supporting a feather, worn in the hair or on a cap, popular in the middle of the eighteenth century and the early twentieth century.

Open setting that leaves the pavilion facets open to the light.

A mixture of two or more metals.

A silver white metal that is lightweight and malleable.

An opaque form of feldspar.

The fossilized resin of prehistoric pine trees which ranges in color from golden to orange-red .

A variety of quartz found in deep purple to a bluish-violet color.

The process of heating metal and then cooling it to render the metal more pliable .

A form of beryl found in pale green blue to clear blue colors.

A form of decoration characterized by flowing lines, scrollwork, leaves, branches, floral forms, symmetrical in form.

A period of design between the 1890's and 1910; the jewelry is characterized by flowing lines, unusual interpretations of nature, the use of women with long flowing hair and the utilization of unusual materials.

Process of determining the proportions of precious metal contained in a piece of gold or silver.

Hallmark showing the office which assayed the metal used in a piece of jewelry (English).

Gemstone cut in the shape of a narrow rectangle.

Trade name for the first synthesized plastic, phenol formaldehyde resin invented by Dr. Leo Backeland.

Head ornament in the form of a narrow band worn low, encircling the forehead.

Decorated ribbons worn in the hair.

Non-flexible bracelet.

Irregular shaped stone or pearl.

French for 'shallow cut', enameling technique worked in a chased relief metal and overlaid with translucent enamel.

Cast iron jewelry worked into delicate openwork patterns, and made in Berlin during the first half of the nineteenth century.

Gemstone setting where a strip or wall of metal encircles the gemstone.

Art of working in gold and enamel.

Freshwater cultured pearl from Japan.

Irregularly shaped and hollow pearl cut from the shell of the oyster.

Fossilized oak from peat bogs in Ireland, popular during the Victorian Era.

A finding that is a hollow or partially hollow connecting ring which is drawn back on an internal spring.

A flux used in soldering.

An alloy of copper and zinc.

A cutting style most often used for diamonds, consisting of 58 facets, also known as 'modern cut' or 'full cut'.

A teardrop shaped stone faceted with triangular or rectangular facets, sometimes pierced at the top, also known as 'drop-cut'.

An alloy of approximately 8 parts copper to 1 part tin.

Style of stone cutting where the top of the gemstone is a dome (en cabochon) and the pavilion is faceted.

Two concave plates that form a hollow receptacle, a form used in ancient jewelry.

Stone with a smooth carved surface, domed and unfaceted with a flat base.

Small stones cut in usually rectangular shapes and faceted in a step cut to fit exactly into a setting or against another stone.

Instrument for fine measuring of both the outside and inside surfaces of a stone .

A design cut in relief, usually into a hard stone or shell.

A type of gold or silver filigree of fine twisted wires forming a coiled spiral, used in early nineteenth century jewelry (Georgian period).

Unit of weight used for precious stones.

A garnet cut en cabochon.

Process of forming an object by pouring a molten or liquid substance into a mould until it solidifies and takes on the impression of the mould.

Trade name for an early phenol plastic.

A quartz, grayish-blue in color.

French term for 'raised field.' Technique of enameling in which enamel is placed in stamped or cut recesses of a metal form.

A row of stones of the same dimension, fitted into a metal channel.

Working a design into a metal from the front using a hammer and/or punches.

A girdle or belt from which various implements are suspended .

A necklace approximately 15 inches long.

A semi-precious stone of transparent golden yellow, green yellow or brown.

A variety of quartz found in a range of colors from light yellow to red-orange to almost brown.

Technique of enameling in which enamels are contained in cells of metal.

Round band of metal encircling a gemstone to hold it in place.

A wide necklace encircling the neck from throat to chin.

The skeleton of small marine animals, found in colors ranging from white to pink to red.

A hoop earring broader at the bottom than at the top, popular in the 1850's.

Small triangular facets above and below the girdle of a brilliant cut stone.

Part of a cut gemstone above the girdle.

Faceted studs riveted into arranged holes to created a pavé effect .

A small matching set of jewelry consisting usually of a brooch and earrings, or a necklace and bracelet, etc.

A semi circular band worn around the head and usually jeweled and three-dimensional.

A wide collar of fabric, gemstones and or pearls worn high and tight on the neck.

Type of brooch consisting of two halves joined together on a frame, which can be detached and worn singly.

A stone consisting of two separate layers.

Abbreviation for pennyweight.

"Dog collar" meant for daytime wear, which is usually made of a soft material, laced to a series of jeweled bars.

A method in which an electric current deposits a layer of metal on an object (i.e.: gold over a base metal).

Rectangular shaped stone with mitered corners which is elongated and octagonal .

Process of fusing powdered colored glass to a surface by means of high heat.

Decorated metal surface made by moving the surface of the object against the blade.

A technique in which metal is cut away with a tool known as a "graver" to form a design, done by either hand or machine.

Removal of part of a metal surface by acid for a decorative effect.

Small cylindrical case that hangs from a chatelaine.

A flat surface ground or cut and polished on the surface of a gemstone.

Glazed porcelain or earthenware.

A ring with two hands clasped together first.

Narrow band with a center jewel worn encircling the forehead.

Design motif of a garland or string of flowers, leaves and ribbons.

Archaeological term for brooch.

Wire twisted into patterns, usually gold or silver, may be soldered to a sheet of metal or twisted to form an openwork pattern.

Material used in soldering.

A small charm, amulet or trinket that hangs on a watch chain or chatelaine.

A technique used to enhance the color of a gemstone, a thin sheet of metal is applied to the base of a stone which is in a closed setting.

Pearls found in river mussels.

A strip on metal with a pattern usually refers to the sides of a ring.

A semi-precious stone found in many colors. The Bohemian type is blood red, the almandine variety ranges from deep red to deep purple, hessonite garnets are brown orange, and demantoid garnets are found in several shades of green.

A misnomer for an alloy of copper, zinc and nickel.

A process of covering substances such as silver, base metal, wood with a thin layer of gold or an alloy.

A ring formed of two or more linked hoops, which fit together in a manner that make them appear as one ring.

A setting in which the stone is sunk into the surrounding metal leaving the top of the stone almost level with the top of the metal surface.

A shape that consists of three pear-shaped stones or pearls hanging from a large stone or decorative motif such as a bow.

The widest part of a gemstone which divides the crown from the pavilion.

Unit of weight; for diamonds and pearls a grain is 0.25 of a carat, 480 grains to the Troy ounce. A Troy grain is equal to an Avoirdupois grain.

A small spherical bead of metal.

The process of decorating a metal surface with tiny grains of metal.

A tool similar to a chisel used for engraving metal.

Gold which contains a high proportion of silver.

Small long pendant beads.

Gold which contains a high proportion of iron.

A form of enamel painted in monochromatic colors.

l A form of enamel work achieved by working the metal on an engine turned lathe to form a pattern and then enameling over the pattern.

Marks stamped on gold, silver or platinum by assay offices after the metal has been tested and determined to contain the proper amount of precious metals required by law.

Small ring worn on the little finger and connected by a chain to a larger ring in which a handkerchief was held.

An opaque mineral of iron oxide, ranging in color from deep grey to black metallic.

A substance often used as a substitute for tortoiseshell, which is from cow horns.

A precious metal formed into a bar or brick by pouring molten metal into a mold.

Materials such as stones, gems, woods and metals are inserted and cemented into the surface of another material and ground down to create a smooth surface.

A channel setting using calibrated stones without any metal showing from the top .

The carving or engraving of a design into a gemstone which is the opposite of a cameo which is in high relief.

African ivory is from the tusk of a male or female elephant whereas Indian ivory is from the male only.

A jeweled tiepin popular in the 1920's and 1930's.

Fossilized coal, often known as Whitby jet for the area of England where much of it came from or black jet.

Small brooch usually set with diamonds, worn in the later 19th Century.

A craftsperson who cuts, facets, engraves and polishes gemstones.

A chain from which an ornament or gemstone hangs in the center.

A jewel which opens on a hinge.

The method of casting metal that uses a rubber mold, which is filled with wax to form a pattern from which a plaster mold is made. The plaster is heated and the wax melts away or is "lost".

A cultured blister pearl .

An iron ore material, pyrite, that is facetted into rose cuts and set into silver or pewter jewelry.

A stone cut in an oval with pointed ends or a boat-shaped stone.

Term for mixed diamond sizes weighing more than carat.

Classification used in the sorting of diamonds weighing less than carat.

A hollow and ribbed bead popular in the Etruscan period and in the 1930's.

Jewel that is a reminder of death.

Jewel that is made in memory of a loved one, often containing hair from that person and frequently decorated with enamel.

Mosaic of very small colored glass pieces (tessarae) inlaid in glass or hardstone.

Chain consisting of interwoven rows of small links forming a mesh .

Glass ornamentation made from canes of colored glass that are layered, and sliced to form patterns, flowers or mosaic effects.

A decorating style creating a fine bead like effect around the edge of a metal collet; popular in the Edwardian and Belle Époque periods.

The name for a woman's small hard vanity case or handbag, usually metal or wood, which is held in the hand.

Irregularly shaped pearls, usually elongated.

A broad gold ring engraved with the word MIZPAH, meaning "I will watch over thee", popular during the Victorian period .

The smooth iridescent interior lining of the shells of certain mollusks .

A gemstone shaped like a boat or oval with pointed ends.

A long necklace that usually terminates in irregular length with tassels or drops .

An inlay technique in which the grooves made in silver or gold are made black in color by the use of a composition of metal sulfides.

A semi-precious stone with a rainbow-like iridescence, which are categorized as three types: opalescent precious opals, yellow-red fire opals and the common opal.

The characteristic sheen of fine natural and cultured pearls.

Small pieces of metallic foil which are placed underneath enamel work to provide a glow, popular with a number of Arts and Crafts movement jewelers.

A white precious metal belonging to the platinum group, it weighs a little more than half as much as platinum and sells for half the price.

A cascade of pendant stones; popular in Georgian jewelry and meant to look like rain drops.

A suite of matching jewelry usually four or more pieces, a necklace, bracelets, earrings and belt or brooch.

Jewelry inspired by furniture trimmings such as cording.

A high content leaded glass which is faceted to imitate diamonds or backed with colored foils to imitate other gemstones. Also known as strass after Frederic Strass who invented this method in the 18th Century.

Discoloration that forms on metals such as silver and bronze but often planned for in the artist's design, can also be introduced artificially by use of chemicals.

A stone setting technique whereby the entire surface of a jewel is covered or paved with closely set stones.

The lower part of a cut gemstone below the girdle.

A type of pear shaped or tear drop gemstone faceted as a brilliant cut and suspended from a smaller stone which is usually separated by a bow or other motif.

Mosaic of semi-precious stones set into a floral pattern of black marble or onyx, also known as a hardstone mosaic.

A gold simulant, invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck, which is comprised of a mixture of copper and zinc.

Tortoiseshell or horn, which is inlaid with mother-of-pearl, silver or gold.

A hammering process done to give a smoother finish to a piece of metal.

A non-corrosive silver white metal, which is heavy and has a high tensile strength.

An enameling technique in which the design is outlined in metal and filled with a transparent enamel, after firing the metal backing is removed creating a stained glass window effect. Popular with the Art Nouveau jewelers.

A pendant scent case.

A ring engraved with a verse.

A ring set with colored stones, the first letters of which spell the word "regard", ruby, emerald, garnet, amethyst, ruby, diamond. Popular in the second half of the 19th century signifying friendship.

A raised high relief design on the front of a metal object made by hammering, embossing or punching the reverse side of the metal to form the design from the back side out.

Rock crystal which is faceted into beads, originally from the Rhine River.

Choker type necklace that is a continuous line of gemstones usually of graduated or equal size stones.

Early 19th century type of goldplating.

A pierced piece of metal or gemstone strung between the beads in a necklace.

An extremely long neck chain, which falls below the waistline and terminates with a tassel or pendant. Popular in the early 20th century.

Engraved (intaglio) of stone or metal used to create an impression on a substance such as wax or clay.

A bodice ornament set with gemstones in a bowknot shape.

The skin of a ray or shark from the waters around China, usually stained green or another color.

Hoop part of a ring.

A jeweled fastener, which slides onto a chain or fabric ribbon.

A method of joining metal parts or pieces together by melting another metal alloy with a lower melting temperature at the joining point.

A very large bodice ornament, usually triangular, filling the area between the neckline and the waistline, also known as a corsage ornament.

A mesh chain with pendants suspended by short, fine chain resembling a fringe; an Archaeological Revival style during the Victorian period.

Decorative pattern in the form of interlaced and crossed straight bands resembling straps.

A motif used on a piece of jewelry of festoons of foliage, fruit and flowers.

The decorated ends of a necklace or bangle usually with stylized heads of a ram, lion, dragon, etc.

A head ornament worn in the crown position .

Twisted strands of pearls ending in a clasp .

A gemstone cut into an equilateral triangle with a flat top.

Jewelry with a trembling effect when the wearer moved produced by elements set upon stiff wires that move (en tremblant).

Sometimes referred to as gas pipe, a flexible tubular chain.

Jewelry set with multi colored gems carved in shapes of leaves, flowers and berries and often in a basket design.

Gold-plated or gilded silver.

Flowing lines that bend and twist as in Art Nouveau designs.

[Source: www.jewelryhistorians.org]